Here’s a great blog post from Katherine Schirrmacher about ticking her first 8a since the birth of her daughter.
It seems she’s had the same issue as me with redpointing, sometimes being a little too focussed on the goal rather than the process and getting stressed out with the whole thing as a result. It’s a really daft response when you analyse it, but it also seems to be one of the most common ones.
I seem to have got more of a handle on redpointing this summer and ticked my second 7c at Raven Tor last weekend (Toadside). It took less time than Sardine actually and despite not being able to do the crux on day 1 it felt pretty steady by day 3 when I did it. That’s probably me done with redpoints this year, although I might get a chance to get back on Zinc Oxide Mountain this weekend on Portland. I’m not sure what’s next for Peak sport climbing for me, I have a list of routes I’d like to try onsight, or at least flash. Ideally I should get on an 8a seriously next year, my attempts so far have been managing all of the moves on The Toilet, and one attempt at The Call of Nature at Raven Tor where I couldn’t manage the crux. I’d like to do both, but I’d rather tick a classic as my first of the grade, but it’s easy to get intimidated into not even getting on them for fear of making a fool of yourself! I probably have a bit of backfilling to do gradewise to get the mileage to haul myself up an 8a without a seige. I think I’ll have to find someone else who wants to try the same things and make it a dual project.